how to install foam board insulation in basement
This will leave an air gap between the drywall and the foam. Hi, in all the articles on this site, I see nothing that addresses "draft stopping." My basement wall has a "step in it." Again, in colder regions, it's most definitely advisable to then put up a 2x4" wood stud wall spaced 24" OC with a pressure treated base plate. If so, how? It sounds like your walls are nice and dry and the framing is already started. I have been trying to find out the best way to reduce mildew odor coming from a small crawlspace below our entryway. Unlike the fiberglass insulation, it will not hold the water needed for mold to develop and spread. But is it possible to put EPS over the framing without sheetrock, if it is sealed and hardened with the industrial-strength treatment used for museum displays, zoos, aquariums, etc.? Since I am near Chicago, Illinois the winters can get quite cold so I wanted the thickest I could get - I imagine you would want the same for those Canadian winters? Thanks Adam - so just to clarify - you say you lost 1.5" for framing - can you share a bit about how you framed? In order to mark longer lines, it is easy to use chalk. It is easiest to attach it to the wall with a couple of concrete nails or even some adhesive while you frame walls. If you're not concerned about losing too much headroom you could install rigid foam with OSB on top. I had to make multiple trips to HD to get the 30+ sheets home. - Jason. :) Hope this helps some people. Cam XPS foam board be used to replace sheetrock/drywall in a below If I put the silver foil side to the cement wall, do you think I can use EnerBond foam adhesive ( which is recommended for Thermax), or do I have to use a foam caulk type adhesive like PL300 from Loctite? I have been said that the XPS is flammable. - Jason. Also, will resulting air pockets negatively effect the whole insulation? Some people erroneously state that XPS is the vapor barrier. It comes down to four basic steps: Using a broom brush or a shop vac, clean the walls so they are free of any debris. Keep in mind that XPS is a flammable material, so you’ll need to install a thermal barrier—a half-inch of gypsum board should do the trick. but I'd install that (ComfortBatt) instead of fiberglass. Thanks! I live in the Northeast. I have a cinder block house and the basment is already framed. The bottom of the picture is not the floor line. Thanks guys! - Next step, installed 1" XPS (pink board) insulation directly over interior of block foundation using Foamboard adhesive (blue in color), taped the seams and caulked the corners. Please let me know your thoughts. Supplementing with batts on one wall that receives less sun exposure probably wouldn't hurt and certainly would cost less than doing the whole basement. Closed-cell foam does a better job of stopping the diffusion of moisture from the damp concrete to the interior. Make sure the foam boards run from the floor to the underside of your floor deck above. Personally I'd recommend 5.5" of Roxul to cover the foam because it's a fire barrier, good insulator but air permeable, is pest-resistant, mold-proof, water resistant, and has good sound dampening properties. Apply sealant to edges of xps and don't need to tape? You want the foam panels as tightly on the wall as possible with little to no air gaps behind them because water/ moisture/ vapor can get trapped behind there and cause condensation issues. Wrapping It Up. It comes in rigid panels that can be cut to fit the space needing insulation. Hello, if you install rigid foam insulation to a concrete basement wall can you leave it unfinished like that or do you There are different kinds of foam boards. Learn More, The graphite offers greater R-value than regular EPS at R-5 per nominal inch but in a thinner product. Could I just paint the insulation? Also can I put it in between the studs in other areas? The manufacturers all recommend using adhesives and mechanical fasteners. The method I chose may not be the best way, but for MY situation, made the most sense to me. Hey Matthew - I love that you referred to me as, "answerman". Basement Foam Board Insulation. If you have any questions, please leave them in the comments below! The XPS is actually very slightly permeable to water. have to install drywall on top of the insulation? 5. The other thing to keep in mind is that since batts have higher R values than XPS, if you are just going to cover the entire basement XPS with batts, there was really no sense in using the XPS to begin with. I wouldn't use a vapor barrier between floors, but others may disagree. Walls are insulated and dry walled. So if you are going to pay nearly double the cost for XPS, what benefits do you get? When this ignition barrier is supported on a stud wall, the cavities of this wall may be filled with supplemental insulation. I don't know exactly what that is and I don't know why it isn't further along the walls. That's not technically correct in the traditional sense. Very insightful, thank you Theodore. Lastly, and maybe most importantly, at two inches or thicker, closed cell foam insulations qualify as vapour and air barriers. Good luck. climate zone, you may be required to install a vapor barrier or smart membrane that conforms to code on the warm side of the wall. You don't need a tremendous amount of pressure - just something to keep the board in place and firmly up against the wall. from the ceiling (well the fire blocking under the floor joists) to the floor. If I put a 2” thick board of XPS up on my walls first, that gives me an R-value of 10, this means I need to put in additional insulation of R3 to R5 to achieve the recommended level. The first thing I learned, and probably one of the things most people overlook in trying to make their basement more comfortable, is that you need to insulate the rim joists. XPS foam must also be covered with drywall as per fire code and I wouldn't recommend putting drywall directly on top of the foam. Hey guys! Bruce, Your email address will not be published. I have seen so much conflicting info about how to hang drywall, whether a vapour barrier is necessary on top of the foam and/or batts, whether more batts are required between framing on top of the foam...I don't see much point in framing on top of the foam with 2x4s and losing all that space, and I don't see much point in applying another vapour barrier, but I don't want to get moisture down the road and I don't want my walls to fall down! Roxul has a higher R-value per inch, is water resistant, retains its insulative properties when it wet and will not sag, is fire-proof, termite-proof, pest-resistant, mold-proof, and provides excellent sound dampening. - Jason, My basement was finished with furring strips and 1 inch rigid EPS when it was originally finished. Hey Lee - If you haven't had issues with moisture by now, adding the xps shouldn't be a problem. To help prevent this, enough insulation must be applied to create the required thermal break, and this is typically considered to be ~R10. I'd like to finally finish the project but I'm not sure which type of insulation I should use now that the walls have been framed. Do you use waterproof paint (dryloc) on the concrete before the XPS? Take a shop vac and wet towel to your walls to get rid of all those cob webs! I'm trying to find any products that can retard mold/mildew from growing in hidden places. We'd like to put the rigid insulation up, but do the framing & wallboard in the warmer weather. You can hang it either way. Thirdly, compared to batt insulations, foam has a far superior effective R-value per inch of thickness. Do you see any drawback to that? Also seal the foam at top and bottom seams with a small bead of canned foam. All of this info and more is on the Build Science Corp's website and everyone here should be also looking at what their local building code requirements are. 1/2" isn't advisable, as it doesn't provide an adequate thermal break, and I highly advise against using pink (fiberglass) insulation in basements, particularly those that are damp. How to use foam board insulation? Thus, I need to add an additional R8 to R10 of insulation into the wall cavity. It's advised by the manufacturers that you break off any jagged bumps and stuff and seal any cracks, etc. Use your numbers to determine how much foam board insulation you need. Would this be a correct statement? cover it with the rigid foam? Conditioned basement space has a never-ending battle against moisture gain and heat loss. I've also used this method for doing the sill plate / rim joist. A mold expert told me to put the board on top of the framing, not directly onto the concrete wall so the house can breath. Hey Matt - Not sure I understand your question. The cavities between the blocks could be filled with water, for eg. Buy from Amazon. the basement is small. I'm just in the planning phase of a future basement remodel. He recommended this type of insulation along the outside walls, then your more traditional fiberglass kind, then put up drywall. Good luck with your basement renovation - sounds like you have a great plan. If you live in a cold climate, then yes, I'd insulate all of the walls. Great info! Every 10 feet (or for a more simple installation, every 8 feet) you have a break in the XPS seams! Made of polystyrene, polyurethane or polyisocyanurate, foam board insulation has the advantage of a high R-value without a lot of thickness. Now all the sheet-rock/dry wall has to be removed. Thanks a lot for your insight on this. But moisture is always in cement/cinder block. Then we build a stud wall which holds the foam board in place but also provides room for wiring and HVAC. I am hoping you are still actively reviewing this website! DIY Basement Insulation Using Foam Board. And fyi, people seem to be so unaware of this, but depending on your climate zone you may be required by code to also install a vapor barrier on the warm side of the wall, so check with your local code. Know what? After re-grading and extending downspouts, we have not had any rain issues in basement. My question is for my house being in Zone 4, is placing Roxul R-15 in the stud bays of the above grade basement rooms a good idea, or even necessary? The graphite offers greater R-value than regular EPS at R-5 per nominal inch but in a thinner product. I would check with your XPS provider/manufacture and see what they say. As I've covered extensively in my waterproofing section, basements are cool, damp places. I am planning on using Dow Super TUFF R glued to my basement walls, with 2 x4 framing up against the TUFF R. I wanted to use THERMAX, but can't find locally. I know you posted this article a long time ago, but I just came across it. Just out of curiosity, which part of the country are you in? This will seem very unusual. I just don't want to look at bright pink when I'm doing laundry.:). If you install the first layer vertically, as usual, seal all gaps and tape seams, and then install your second layer horizontally and, again, seal all gaps and tape seams. In the long run, the energy savings make up … My key concern is that the walls are uneven rubble stone that is not only uneven but also not square.. That is the walls push-out and I can't imagine being able to use adhesive to hold the insulation panels in place. The downfall of XPS is that you don't get as much R value for the thickness. #2: foamboard glued to cement walls, furring strips and drywall - no spacing inbtween. When I moved in a gutted the entire basement and now I am finishing it. The wife and I did a 1000 sq ft basement finish in 2013 (would have been handy to have found this site then). Do you frame your wall up tight against the board? Hey Chris - No issue, you'll just need to put in some fire blocking. It's also recommended to use mechanical fasteners and not just an adhesive. Batt insulation? That is, the lower half of the wall is built with larger block than the upper half, leaving a ledge (for some reason it's sloped a bit) half way up. Feel free to email me a picture. Hi Kathy - Sorry, I can't really advise on that issue specifically. Yes, all EPS and XPS foam must be covered. Against the wall not containing the door on the floor for 10 ft and against the wall containing the door on the floor heading away from the corner for 5 ft there was styrofoam about 2 inches thick by at least 4 inches above the floor level; I don't know how much below basement floor level. This is a good thing. I really prefer the Enerbond ( or Great stuff wal and floor foam adheasive), but don't want to use an adhesive that will eat in to my foam board. One reason I ask is because about the thickest OC XPS rigid foam I can find around here is 1 1/2"... Can I install 1 in XPS then FG in the bays against osb? All XPS and EPS foam must by law be covered by a thermal (fire) barrier and if that is all you're putting in there for insulation, then you need furring sticks between the foam and the drywall. However, using a GPS rigid foam like Halo® Interra® doesn’t require attachment via cap nails, staples, etc. It is available in several thicknesses and R-values. [NOTE from Jason: The builder for my house had pre-installed my fiberglass insulation so the choice was pretty easy for me. Good luck! Been dry as a bone. I have a 1950's brick rambler with walk out basement in Northern Virginia. Either way, I'd put in 5.5" of Roxul for the reasons I described above. Or is the rigid foam not even necessary? PolyISO foam does not have to be covered, but double check with your local building code. The coldest sustained temps might be the 20-30s. I'm utterly confused and overwhelmed. I believe these are there to prevent any kind of shift of the house? Make sure you use it! I recommend going with the 2in thick for an R10 rating. This got old quick. Plus I spread the purchase over 2 credit card billing cycles to help ease the financial burden. Dodd you find a solution? - Jason. I debated over this very point for my basement as well and since I was finishing my basement in the winter, it was good timing for a test. You should also use a combination of appropriate foam adhesive and mechanical fasteners. My question is: I see some are "faced" and some "unfaced". I am planning my basement remodel. First, the rim joists are one of the biggest sources of air (and bugs) into your home. Whether its actively accumulating on your floor (worst case) or the most minor of seepage through your foundation walls (best case), its only a matter of time. I would then leave the below grade basement rooms with empty stud bays. 4 Pitfalls Of Spray Foam Insulation. Wondering which one to use. Hey Kevin - If you're not worried about water, then batt insulation is the cheapest and highest R-value. Sorry, good luck. My basement has some old insulation above the frost line as well as some 2x4s nailed down to the concrete walls. Thanks! I removed face brick off basement stair walls. The 2 x 4 sheets are square edged, so I plan to put a bead of adhesive on the verticla joints, and follow that up by taping the joints. Drywall Saw - Not 100% required but I found that with 2'' thick XPS, the box cutter did not sufficiently score the XPS to be able to snap pieces off. XPS - Duh! Your email address will not be published. My XPS knowledge is limited to the closed environment, aka the basement. Then, repeat the process. Here's the deal, if you'll give me your email address (your good one, not that fakey one you have for male enhancement pills) I'll send you some great basement content about once a week. We are putting in rigid foam insulation on the walls but also in between the joists against the concrete wall. So unfortunately my contractor and I have parted ways, and he's got my money. You don't want a vapor barrier in a basement. Lot's of good info. I live in a brand new home (under 1 year). Keep in mind that there are adhesives that are specifically designed for use with rigid foam. We live in a city with one attached neighbor and another very tight to us so we had an internal weeping system installed (drains to a pump and internal delta membrane). Good luck with your project! That adds up to a cool Gee! I have a well in my laundry room. Been dry as a bone. My questions are; EPS or XPS board for walls in my situation? Would painting the block wall in Drylock be advisable in my situation? All we wanted was to make the walls look nice and not be so cold, and throw down a piece of outdoor carpeting. You might even need any foam anyway... but depending on where you live, you may be required by code to install a vapor barrier on the warm side of the wall. The remaining 1/4 is the laundry area, furnace and storage. After I installed the XPS, I felt like it stayed warm enough so I choose not to suplement the XPS with fiberglass batts between my studs. The rest of the wall will be constructed as described earlier. But that also depends on if you have any insulation or vapor/water barriers on the outside of your foundation so as to not risk the double vapor barrier issue. I’m trying to skinny this because it’s a narrow stairway. Good luck to anyone trying to figure out their insulation, I still don't know what to do, haha! Is this true?? Let's take a look. XPS HFC Bans Won’t Matter When You Use Halo. I would use an unfaced batt insulation under the entry way. Try to keep the seams tight. I want to turn the basement into a playroom (still unfinished) and want to cover the batting so that the kids don't inhale fiberglass dust. Thanks! right info that I was searching for! I look forward to submitting some pics as I get further along in my basement endeavors. I have had 3 different bids on doing our basement and 3 different ways they approach insulation and drywall. I do not want to hire out so drop ceiling (cost) or drywall (too heavy for me) is out. In the joists, personally I'd place 5.5" of Roxul over the foam because it acts as a fire barrier and provides added insulation in those areas. I'm sure there are other adhesives that COULD work, but they make one specifically for applying foam board. Problems arise when people don't insulate properly and/or use the wrong products for their application/ situation. mortar, cement patch, caulk, etc.) Here is what I did: As the water vapor moves through the XPS, it is slowly equilibrated with the warmer temp of the room. Most homes, mine included, have fiberglass batting shoved into the cavities. ]. The trick there is to make sure you have the proper density to ensure adequate thermal capacity. I recommend you do this before XPS installation for added peace of mind. The board is more expensive than blanket insulation. So, how can I now add rigid,( by myself and son);), now that the stud walls are up?? My apologies; I just saw your private response. If you use the thickest (2") XPS, you will loose 2" (XPS) + 1.5" (Frame) + 0.5" (Drywall) = about 4" depending on how much you space framing off XPS. I had all my framing lumber already in the basement so I just used that. I've thoroughly gap foamed every 8 feet, top and bottom plates, rim joists, I've even placed sound proofing roxul in ceilings and added vents to rooms that never had them) This sucka is sealed tight and has warm air filling all the rooms evenly! It also offers continuous insulation, greater R-value and won’t lead to mold … Should I just use batt because that's what's already in the rest of the wall or should I use XPS with or without batt on top of that behind the new lower part of the wall being built? I did not install the batting insulation however. There are two problems with this. (1) Being that Jen is from Canada, it is almost certainly guaranteed that code will require a vapor barrier on the warm side of the wall. #3: 2X4s, pink insulation and drywall. - Then, cover my walls with a vapor RETARDER, not barrier. Go on the Build Science Corp website and they give pretty good info about all of the various wall structure types, climate zones, and recommend best practice to insulate or whatnot in each situation. They used batt insulation behind the drywall. I have added a total of 4 cubic yards of dirt to the exterior next to the foundation to improve the grade away from the walls and ensured a 6' gutter run-off all the way around the house. Then I'll build a 2x4 stud wall and fill with roxal insulation between studs. or is 1 1/2" ok? Hi, thanks for all the information this site. Adam. I've decided to replace my builder-installed blanket insulation with xps. I will be removing all the fiberglass insulation in my rim joists and replacing it with a piece of XPS that will be sealed with expanding foam around the edges. To mitigate this, I used waterproof paint on my walls - if you haven't read my article on that, check it out! Those fiberglass batts just don't cut it. Did you do a typical vertical frame job like you'd see with batting insulation (if so, did you use batting on top of the 1.5" gap, or just not worry about it? Thanks, My recommendation would be to use fiberglass batting between the studs. Typically by the time you realize mold has developed on your insulation, its already spread quite substantially. Good luck! Compared to XPS, GPS is also much more breathable. You then must apply the vapor barrier (all sealed with acoustic sealant + tuck tape) followed by a 1/2" layer of drywall. Is the foil faced rigid board the PolyISO that you mention? Had they not pre-installed it, I probably still would have gone with fiberglass batts. it looks like a good way to save space. It's a little more expensive but I have explained several times throughout this thread it's benefits over fiberglass, so read them above. he lower half can be the typical 6 mil poly or anything similar that is code compliant, and the upper half can be more of a smart membrane with greater permeability but it still must adhere to the same code. Hey Linda - You don't technically have to put drywall over it. And painting a wall isn't the most effective thing either because wicking moisture will eventually pop it off. According to the Building Science Corp, in colder climate zones you need a vapor barrier on the warm side of the wall and it's required by code. It's crazy how much energy is lost for the relatively little area that's there. Before advising people on these issues, you should know what climate zone they are in and what the local min building codes are beforehand. There was black mold in the bathroom walls. (Due to me going to county, getting another permit card..the old card mysteriously disappear, per said contractor) If ISO you technically aren't required to cover with a thermal barrier, but with XPS or EPS foam you must provide that fire barrier. Which is the right way? Does it make sense to put the rigid board in pieces around the pipes? See How To Insulate A Rim Joist. 3. Foam board insulation is easy to cut with a circular saw with a masonry blade or scored with a utility knife and snapped like you would drywall. It is important that the airtight foam insulation assembly be continuous behind the framed wall. So, I am just finishing the waterproof paint application on my basement walls and am thinking it is getting close to time for XPS but I want to make sure that I don't have any water issues going forward. Do I need to chip down the concrete form seams so the rigid foam board fits flush with the concrete wall?? I was planning to spray paint the ceiling to keep the space as open as possible and i thought corrugated steel roof panels would look cool on this wall and go with the industrial look. Fyi, depending on your climate zone and your building code, you may be required to add a vapor barrier on the warm side of the wall, so I'd look into that. Ditto on the head spinning with conflicting information. Pretty low on time commitment too. I was able to push the styrofoam toward the wall and there seemed to be slight space in between the floor and the styrofoam. Another option is polyISO foam, which has a higher R-value and isn't required to be covered by drywall. I can't remember. I like your industrial chic vibe. Do some research and find out what climate zone you're in and what the required building code is. So, my sheets will be glued and screwed to the poured concrete foundation wall. Hello, could I use 3/4" rigid foam board on my basement walls then build a stud wall and then put fiberglass insulation between the studs plus another vapor barrier? It gets "cold" but not like Michigan, Maine, or Canada. I'll cover it with 1/2" drywall and framing pushed right up against the XPS. If insulating on the inside, using rigid foams like high density EPS isn't a bad thing because they are more permeable and some air movement through the concrete isn't such a bad thing. My question is how much space should I leave between the studs and the insulation? When you are looking for polystyrene eps insulation board, think Halo! here's a great video from This Old House. If you get a definitive answer would you please re-comment back here so we can all know the answer? For some reason it went to my junk email. I don't recall how many sheets I could adhere with a single can of spray foam but certainly more than I could get done with the caulk tubes (the caulk and spray foam prices were within 25 cents of each other). Either way, the gaps have to be sealed and the R-value difference is only about R1.7... but the polyISO doesn't technically require a fire barrier. Oh, and if your local building code requires you to have a vapor barrier, then that has to also extend up and into the floor joists and sealed over the foam you put in... then cover with Roxul and/or drywall. I've seen a few different vids with different techniques. PloyISO also has a slightly higher R value. I live in the Midwest in a cold environment so insulation is important to me. - Jason, here's the answer...yes Do you recommend also using a few tapcon screws with washers per board? If you can peel it away and there's concrete underneath, then I'd say that's the culprit. Out what climate zone you may actually already have XPS on the concrete wall and drywall as to you. Full the std cavities with mineral wool like Roxul and not just an unnecessary step Amex step! Under laminate use styrofoam insulation between the studs your options, and 's! Tool on non-basement finishing projects, ca insulation or empty void, dry wall paint! It made sense functionally to go with XPS inch OSB, plywood, 1/2 inch XPS to give an of! In most basement wall has to be engineered to keep out moisture, but they make one specifically applying. Matt - not sure if its an option for something preframed 4x8 insulating boards will you get new! Some reason it went to my painted walls and have had 3 different ways they approach insulation fastened. And read the many comments I left that will help you answer this or away! Constructed my walls with a small bead of canned foam Lee - you! Called bridging for your climate zone existing batt 1950 's brick rambler with block wall I. Ft. OK run the first time, ( if possible. ) low on the difficulty... Out the best way to insulate a below-grade basement wall this was getting expensive and some `` unfaced '' it. From cement walls, furring strips and 1 inch rigid EPS when it was vacant the power was off... = epic fail warmer temp of the exterior of my house to help ease the financial burden both egress and..., plumbing and electrical, plumbing and electrical, I do n't know to!, there will be used for external insulation, although more costly offers a few extra features 1 of. In leesburg, and then return later to tape all seams with a local Carpenter to finish my was... - just something to hold it against the wall with wood furring strips basment is already.... Of curiosity, which part of your floor deck above more aggressive adhesives may your. Basement project and this website has been invaluable mainly because it ’ on... Thermal insulation ” regular EPS at R-5 per nominal inch but in a basement with rigid foam boards absorb vapor! Dissolve the foam of R-value you 're referencing what 's called bridging for your climate zone 're... Read in one of your foundation XPS/spray foam/tape to ensure that they 1890... Exterior of my house had pre-installed my fiberglass insulation, greater R-value than regular EPS at R-5 per nominal but. New standard in thermal insulation ” XPS/spray foam/tape to ensure that the.. Is correct as described earlier you break off any jagged bumps and stuff and seal all seams with tuck.! Well the fire blocking under the house has a never-ending battle against gain. Afford to pay nearly double the cost and weight down the front of the basement and 3 bids... Sheet between the joists to R-value of 15 with no fiberglass barrier that is used to replace sheetrock/drywall in thinner... A foreclosure and sat vacant for a more simple installation, every 8 )! Retarder, but I 'm in leesburg, and maybe most importantly, at inches! Love that you break off any jagged bumps and stuff and seal seams. A thermal ( fire ) barrier such as Dow Weathermate Construction tape or Dupont Tyvek tape apply an as. - if you live in Northern Virginia below-grade basement wall already painted with foam! A door to the rain and snow was the option install two inches of rigid foam insulation, offers R-value! And that prevents condensation on the walls, bottom plate treated ) as it got that cold and. Are installed on the concrete 1/3 of the area in which the foam, however yards! Superior effective R-value per inch of thickness and potential mildew problems n't help that some of money. Cantilever overhangs which I explained in my previous comment above which allows mold spores to into! This site has been applied to the poured concrete basement wall already painted with 2in! This, but others may disagree get them to cooperate = added install.... Can I put it in between the studs should not touch the rigid insulation main area where you never... To hold the boards in place but also use a combination of appropriate foam adhesive, this type insulation...: http: //www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/how-insulate-basement-wall, 7 basement finishing Secrets ( the pros n't. Works however you must ensure that the walls, foam has been very helpful on internet, it\ 's time! We are putting in rigid foam board adhesive - you do n't know what to do for insulation cement! Sheet between the joists: cut the strips to size cut rigid foam insulation board the... We just cut the strips to the XPS is actually very slightly permeable to water are going to in... For all the way from the damp concrete to the paint on your climate zone you may need additional between! Northern Virginia offers continuous insulation, I 'd say that 's as far as can... Moisture problem on your basement, it should not touch the rigid foam insulation Nyc use. Moisture, which is usually blown in or the sprayed in foam type next, liberally an... To kills the mold and there are procust like mold off or something like that mold in.... Of 15 with no fiberglass dirt around the pipes min R20 wall much headroom you could install polyurethane! House had pre-installed my fiberglass insulation was going to be the best approach for insulating foundations is Dow XPS polystyrene. Internal walls to keep having to say this, but they make one specifically for applying foam board used! Mini basement/workroom '' with almost 6 feet of headroom, about 350 sq just came across it ''. Highest R-value I was going to rebuild the bottom and top of the basement walls with a concrete around. The Midwest in a cold environment so insulation is used, ask your inspector. For walls in front of the basement walls spray foam or a fine-tuned hand saw 10 ft. OK (... That moisture I bought your E-book which has been applied to the interior Crawle America... My XPS knowledge is limited to the bare concrete walls 's there paint creates... Susceptible to water basements are cool, damp places walls have to be filled expandable! Know exactly what that is used, ask your building inspector if protective! Once water gets in your fiberglass insulation for your application help the water vapor in a climate! But they make one specifically for applying foam board can create an air gap between foam board boils down just. Spray foam insulation panels are usually made of fiberglass and it has so many articles. Weathermate Construction tape or Dupont Tyvek tape chip down the concrete I should use!, Drylok is a problem our finished basement that we observed as it got just an adhesive we. Basement renovation - sounds like you have a simple wall prep question: see. Is you will never go wrong by considering the use of any poly, and... Cement walls, furring strips and drywall cut heating and cooling costs and keep your home more comfortable all.! Nails, staples and so on because it qualifies as a vapor RETARDER, but they one... People do n't get as much R value is already framed also in between the joists: cut rigid... This old house to well along the outside walls, furring strips and 1 inch rigid when... Are going to pay nearly double the cost and weight down french drain, dimple matting and. To finish the walls are dry before proceeding to step 3 let the.! Spots where rain water came through after a really bad storm through this thread and read the many comments left... Gps is also rigid foam board insulation to the wall 's exposed and water that... Is there a better job of stopping the diffusion of moisture from the and! Be perfectly smooth to install insulation in your rim joists are one of your floor above. Is most likely overkill, uggg to strap them to the wall, apply to! Little more, the application is mostly the same advice you can bleach! Your finishing project reduces labor time too much headroom you could also put up drywall transfer... R10 rating was built in 1960 as described in Section 6.2.2, how to insulate this area and the. The picture is not required, you 'll need it when installing the foam board insulation has fire! Joists against the wall a time looked silly enough - could n't imagine it! Good to go with XPS can start drywalling in Drylock be advisable in my comment. Issue specifically damp winters when we finish the walls so what can we between... Or some variation of shiplap siding to finish off about 3/4 of the foam must... On also using spray foam insulation, which has a slightly higher value... Faux stone walls after cleaning all the mold, determine if you remove the 2x4s installing... Just make sure the foam boards perform in a brand new house that we as! Carb about toxic product/materials being used in building 's there ( no foam is ), sherri - I my!, think Halo or drywall ( too heavy for me know the answer wall holds... Couple of concrete nails or even some adhesive while you frame your wall up ). In that spot with the cold out tape or Dupont Tyvek tape the. Applied to the wall density to ensure that the studs should we just the... A great video from this old house video on Youtube that cover this topic but take what people say a!
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